Termites eat cellulose — which is most of the wood in your home — but they do have preferences, and 'termite-resistant' isn't the same as 'termite-proof.' Here's what's actually on the menu.
"Is there a wood termites won't eat?" a homeowner in Mission Viejo asked while planning a deck rebuild. It's a smart question to ask *before* you spend money on lumber — and the answer is more nuanced than the "termite-proof wood" marketing you'll run into. Termites eat cellulose, which is the structural component of virtually all wood, so the honest framing isn't "what will they eat" but "what slows them down."
Here's what's actually on the menu, what they tend to avoid, and why "resistant" is not the same as "proof."
What Termites Are Really After
Termites feed on cellulose, the fibrous material that makes up the cell walls of wood and most plant matter. They don't distinguish between "structural lumber" and "a cardboard box" the way we do — both are cellulose. That's why an infestation isn't limited to framing: termites will move into anything cellulose-based they can reach.
| Termites will feed on | Notes |
|---|---|
| Structural framing, studs, joists, rafters | The primary target — sound, dry lumber |
| Fascia, eaves, trim, window and door frames | Exposed, weathered exterior wood is a favorite entry point |
| Plywood and OSB | The wood layers and glue-bound fibers are still cellulose |
| Hardwood floors, baseboards, cabinetry | Yes — furniture and flooring are fair game |
| Cardboard, paper, stored books | Cellulose, and often overlooked in garages and attics |
| Drywall paper facing | They'll eat the paper layer, not the gypsum core |
Softwood vs. Hardwood — a Mild Preference
Termites will eat both, but they generally find softwoods (pine, fir, most framing lumber) easier going than dense hardwoods. They also gravitate toward wood that's weathered, cracked, or has any moisture history, because it's softer and easier to penetrate — which is exactly why exterior fascia and eaves that have taken years of sun and marine-layer humidity are such common starting points in Southern California homes.
"Termite-Resistant" Woods — and the Catch
Some woods genuinely resist termites better than others, and they're worth knowing about for new construction or exterior projects:
- Redwood and cedar heartwood contain natural compounds that deter termites — but only the *heartwood*; the lighter sapwood is not resistant.
- Pressure-treated lumber is chemically treated to resist both termites and decay, which is why it's used at soil-contact points.
- Composite and PVC materials aren't cellulose, so termites can't eat them.
The catch is in that word *resistant*. Resistant means slower and less preferred — not immune. Termites can and do infest redwood sapwood, and pressure-treatment chemistry degrades over 15–25 years, so a resistant choice reduces risk without eliminating it. There is no such thing as truly termite-proof wood in a real structure.
What This Means for Your Home
The practical takeaway is that you can't build or buy your way to immunity — which is why detection and inspection matter more than material choice. Drywood termites in particular don't need soil contact or moisture; they infest sound, dry, above-grade wood directly, which is most of what your house is made of. Our complete guide to drywood termites covers how they live inside that wood, and the 5 warning signs of a termite infestation covers how to catch them early regardless of what species of lumber they've moved into.
If you're planning exterior work, using resistant materials at exposed and soil-contact points is a smart hedge. But pairing that with regular inspections is what actually protects the structure.
A free inspection checks the wood you already have — the framing, trim, and exterior members most at risk — and tells you whether anything's already feeding.